OYSTERS' FRIEND

Back to Brasseries.... Many years ago after singing an Arvo Part concert my fellow singers and I decided we were in dire need of a "feed!!" Arvo takes it out of you and we needed our stuffing replaced. It was after 11pm so I was rather dubious about the whole exercise. I was terror struck at the idea of going to a restaurant to be only greeted with a the last service was at 9 30 pm or worse, having food basically thrown at us by a surly waitress.

There is this " thing" with service here in France. I don't know whether you have noticed it but often in restaurants one is made to feel "so lucky" to be there. After my initial shock the first few years of being here I finally started vocalising my surprise with Hello hello, I'm the client. I also did a few walk-outs when the rudeness or bad service just got too much...life is TOO short. Its the same with shops...sometimes one feels that by simply walking in that you are putting them out. You often get the "up and down"...are you GOOD enough for my shop carry on.

I remember going out with my new born son in the pram to the local town ( very very small town!!) to try and find some non-maternity clothes for myself. As I was negotiating the doorway with the pram the "shop girl" was nattering away on the phone...when I had finally got through the door she put down the phone just long enough to say " Desolé mais nous n'avons rien pour vous ici" in other words, Sorry but we don't have anything for you here ie nothing in your size. She went back to her conversation and I spent another 5 humiliating minutes re negotiating the doorway with the pram. I never went back.

 Let's get back to the late night after - concert dinner.... My fellow musicians knew Bordeaux better than myself, especially late night Bordeaux. They lead me into what can only be described as " yesterday." I found myself in a smokey Brasserie packed full of people, blackboard menus strung around walls, moustached waiters SMILING wearing aprons and crisp clean white shirts. Laughter, garlic, red wine and joy emanated. This was the France I came for!! I'd landed in the Café des Arts. We weren't snarled and stared at.We were given a bottle of wine, on the house(!!!), at the old varnished wooden bar while a waiter cleared a table for us. The first thing that struck me as I downed my first glass of velveteen red was the mix of clientelle. Everything from musicians, actors, elderly, students, bourgeoise, whatever...it was an environment where everyone felt at ease.

When installed at our table the waiter told us that he'd just had an arrival of oysters...how would we feel about a few dozen between us. We were more than happy to help out...I was a little disappointed as I'd really needed something "hot." I said nothing as the atmosphere was too wonderful to puncture with my anglo saxon yearnings for hot food. When the oysters arrived, served on huge huge platters spread across our two tables with great hunks of rye bread and bowls of butter, the waiter came up to me and put a side dish beside me..." Une saucisse maison pour madame....les saucisses sont les amies des huitres" A sausage for madam...sausages are oysters' friends. The relief on my face created a wave of laughter...and I swear I have never enjoyed a sausage as much. The oysters were devine too...

 Last night we went back to the Café des Arts...it is still the same welcoming place. The blackboard menus are still there and the menu hasn't changed...neither has the quality of food and service. The only change is that the smoke has gone. Its a true french brasserie serving basics with seasonal market specials. Last night we had Autumn salads with bitter endives married with foie gras and piping hot cepes mushrooms panfried with apples, parsley and garlic. We moved onto lamb shanks cooked until they melted in your mouth, the flesh falling of the bone, perfumed with fresh thyme.

 I love modern french cuisine...but I also love to be filled with good wine, food and love. Café des Arts is one of those places, a ritual in french hospitality and simple good fresh cooking. Go there!!